Installing your Hydraulic Door
Selecting and buying a new Hydraulic Door is difficult enough by itself, installing it properly can be even harder.
Often, we take the instruction manual for most products and toss it in the trash. We like to think that we can handle putting anything together... or at the very least, oversee the install process. Installing a Single Panel Hydraulic Door should not be taken lightly. Let's consider the product you are planning to take delivery on, assemble, and install; a Well Bilt Hydraulic Door. These doors are engineered and factory produced specifically for the exact specification you provide us with. We see time and time again end users fail to follow instructions or skip steps to save time, the result - a Hydraulic Door that doesn't work right or doesn't work at all.
Most installers fail in three main areas:
1. Failing to plan
- Failing to plan the install process typically starts with not having the proper tools, equipment and labor to get the job done properly. This causes the installation to be slow. Installers cut corners and skip important steps just to get the job done.
- Plan your Hydraulic Door Install well in advance. You can download our installation manuals from our website HERE Read it thoroughly, arrange the proper tools and equipment and set a planned install date.
2. Assuming too much
- Never assume! Always inspect and verify. One of the most common issues with faulty door installation is failure to ensure the opening is ready to accept your new Hydraulic Door. Far too often, we find out hangar openings are out of square or plumb. This can set your installation back by days or weeks. Your opening must be square and plumb for our Hydraulic Doors to be installed properly.
- Another common mistake is a Hangar Door that is installed on a building that 100% complete. Your building will not react correctly during door operation, causing popping and other noises that should not exist.
3. Failing to Pre-load
- Pre-Engineered Buildings are intended to have a dead load deflection; however, they do not come from the manufacture loaded to that limit. If you lift the door into place and weld it to your building without pre-loading the weight of the door to the building, you'll end up with a sag in the middle of your building. Any time you see a Hangar Door "smiling" at you when in the open position... this is most likely why!
- The installer needs to add hoists to the building and door to effectively dead load weight from the hangar to the metal building. It doesn't take long to do this properly and is time well spent.
Here we show a Bi-Fold Door (The process is similar for Hydraulic Doors). Strapped to the door frame are two chain falls that are rated for 3 tons each.
The intent is only to add a portion of the door weight to the center of the building. This loading allows the bottom rollers to lay parallel to the columns and roll straight up and down the column.
Always remember, Hydraulic Doors are big, heavy, and when installed incorrectly... dangerous! The concepts are simple and strategic in nature. Take your time, think, be safe and make certain your know your limits as an installer.
Below is a comprehensive list of tools that you will need to install your door. While some items on this list are interchangeable with similar tools, we strongly recommend that you have all the items listed present at your install. Having them present will prevent you from having to stop your installation to locate specific items.
Standard Hand Tools
- Tin Snips
- 3/4" Impact Socket
- 3 lb. Hammer
- 12-15" Bessey/C- Clamps/Welder's Vice Grips (two needed)
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Standard Pliers
- Vice Grip
- Crescent Wrench (at least 1 1/4")
- 4' Level
- Regular and Phillips Screwdrivers
- Grease Gun and Grease
- Chalk Line
- Electric Impact Driver (corded)
- Hammer Drill w/ 1/2" masonry bit (concrete anchors only)
- 2" Coring Bit (cane bolts only)
- Cordless Drill (w/ 5/16" and 7/16" drives)
- Electric Drill (corded w/bit asst. up to 9/16")
- 4 1/2" Grinder with Grinding Wheels, Cutoff Wheels, and a Wire Wheel
- Extension cords
- Welder/Generator with at least 6600 Watts (220V/30 Amp)
- 1/8" 7018 Welding Rods or
- 1/8" 6011 Welding Rods
- Slag Hammer
- 2 people to help install
- 15-20' Log Chain
- Come-a-longs with straps
- 6000 lb. Telescoping Forklift (Doors weigh about 4.75 lbs. / sq. ft. You may need more than one lift for larger doors.)
- All Terrain Scissor Lift
- Telescopic Ladder
- SAE 10 / ISO 32 Weight Hydraulic Oil
- Red oxide primer (Spray Cans)
- Safety Glasses
- Welding Mask
- Hearing Protection
- Work Gloves
- Steel Toe Boots
- Safety Harness